December 31, 2010

Have a Sweet—Dolce—& Gabbana New Year!

As we close out the old year and look forward to the new one, I have begun to set our compass on what the griffes are predicting for 2011.

Hopefully not sounding like a broken record, the focus of this site is on emerging designers, yet without forgetting the long emerged.

As for a griffe that has been long established in the men’s world of fashion, there is probably none other than Dolce and Gabbana.

Two Italian men who were not afraid to express their bold views on raw masculinity, fearless femininity, elegant sensuality, and refined fragility…

With the equivalent of $1,000 in their pocket, Dolce and Gabbana embarked on their label a little over 25 years ago.

Stefano Gabbana was born 1962 in Milano, Italy; while Domenico Dolce was born 1958 outside Palermo in Sicily.

The two young men met 1980 in Milano and soon formed a partnership; today, they continue business as friends.

For 2011, Dolce & Gabbana fix their attention on “Sicilian Sensuality,” continuing their theme from 2010.

So, I would like to say Happy New Year to all with this video of Dolce & Gabban spring/summer 2011 collection:





See more images here.

Photos Copyright Dolce & Gabbana.

2011 According to Dolce & Gabbana

Summertime Tailoring
Extra light washed silk. Linen and raw hemp woven like baskets.

Shirts in poplin and washed muslin cotton. Extra light washed and rubbed-down cotton. Sandblasted denim.

Sweaters in jute or in interwoven jute and leather. Extra light silk sweaters.

Open-work leather shoes or made with new techniques to hand-sew leather. Interwoven Sicilian style leather sandals.

String or leather sandals like those worn by Sicilian fishermen.

Interwoven leather bags that take inspiration from those used by the farmers in the South of Italy.

Soft volumes and sensuality: everything is made in the most classic and traditional summertime tailoring TRADITION.

Light and Shadow
White and black suits with an “out-in-the-sun” effect: the colors of the fabric look like they faded away because of the long exposure in the sun.

The color of sand hints the beach, while beige recalls the tangle of peasants’ baskets.

Heat
The need and desire to slow down from the hectic rhythm of life thus taking back one’s own time.

The whole collection turns around the concept of a more relaxed and sensual kind of elegance.

This concept is also expressed through swimsuits made of knitwear and coordinated with the sweaters that recall the popular concept of the famous “Italian Vitelloni.”

See the whole collection here.

Photos & text Copyright Dolce & Gabbana.

December 30, 2010

2011 According to Cerruti

As I mentioned yesterday, 2011 has about as much to offer us as there are designers! The variations, emphases, and silhouettes on the runways span a panorama of looks, all depending on the designer.

While the main focus of this site is on emerging designers around the world, from time to time we set out compass on the griffes—those who have long emerged and gained a name in the world of fashion.

So, let’s turn our attention now to Cerruti’s press release and learn what the 2011 spring/summer season will bring to us.

“The first passage of the show sets the tone of the collection: innate Parisian chic. Between Saint Germain-des-Prés and Bob Richardson, the Cerruti man breathes an air of ultra-contemporary refinement.

Shaped around a fresh, sharp-cut sartorial shoulder, the silhouette remains notably fitted. Boldly adjusted double-breasted jackets combined with barely flared trousers for a 70’s feel. Alternatively, big jumpers over slim leg trousers offer an equally convincing look.

Beautifully created, trench coats in compact wool gabardine play with length. Invigorating, expressional colors work to energize the silhouette. Available in a rich palette of colors (taupe, grape, khaki, fischia, blue), the garments can be worn effortlessly under a denim racket or a three-piece suit. And cede their place gracefully to jersey polos in glazed cotton or cotton silk.

The tuxedo is no longer restricted to eveningwear. Worked in a technical cotton or colored leather, it becomes a part of the daytime silhouette. Wrap collars, Bermudas with a tailored stripe or shorts with contrasting belt detail inspire new combinations.

Regardless of the silhouette, accessories take centre stage: peccary mittens by Causse, woven straw hats by Philipp Treacy, leather luggage by Pinel & Pinel. Available from July in the newly renovated Madeleine flagship store. “

Have a peek at the collection here.

Photos Copyright Cerruti.

About Cerruti

Born 1930 in Biella of Italy’s Piedmont region, Nino Cerruti founded his ‘maison de couture’ 1967 in Paris.

Nino’s high fashion house, however, was not his first fashion undertaking, since the Italian designer comes from a long line of garment producers.

Amazingly, the Cerruti family has been worked in the garment manufacturing since the middle of the 1700’s, mostly as expert weavers in the industry!

In 1881 Nino Cerruti’s grandfather founded a textile mill, Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti, the direction of which Nino Cerruti assumed in 1951 when he was only 20 years of age.

A year after founding his fashion house in Paris, Nino became known for Casual Chic, “a luxurious, glamorous look which conquers the world and the market with a unique, thrilling style.”

Over the course of his career, Nino Cerruti has also gained the reputation for dressing Hollywood as he clothed the actors in list of films too long to name.

At the turn of the millennium, Nino decided to sell his brand to investors and devote his full attention to his grandfather’s textile mill.

Since 2007, Jesper Borjesson has been the designer of the Cerruti menswear line, as this Swedish designer has been increasingly emphasizing Nino Cerruti’s ‘relaxed chic’ look.

Have a peek at the 2011 spring/summer collection here.

Photos Copyright Cerruti.

December 29, 2010

2011 According to Issey Miyake

As we come to the end of another year, many of us are eager to discover what 2011 has in store for men’s fashion. Probably never more than now, it all depends on who is doing the forecasting.

While Men’s Fashion by Francesco is primarily concerned with emerging menswear designers from around the world, every so often we need to hear from those who have long emerged—what I call, the griffes.

Whether we like it or not, for the most part, the griffes have a worldwide impact on fashion trends and styles, setting the stage for what filters down to the masses.

So, first, let’s take a look at the spring/summer 2011 press release of Issey Miyake, who looks to nature for inspiration next year:

The Trout
The Trout lives in cold streams. He is a master of disguise, secreting himself quietly while all around him life abounds with activity. Cautious and patient, he waits and he watches. Suddenly, when the chance arises, he reveals himself—the flash of a beautifully dappled figure in the water – and he takes his prey.

His patience, his elegance and the beauty of his fighting spirit is revealed.

ISSEY MIYAKE Spring-Summer 2011 collection is inspired by the nature of the Trout.

Trout Plaid
Energetic and graphic abstract plaids are achieved through knitting, weaving and printing techniques in a variety of vivid rainbow colors. Worn with ragged circle pattern A-POC GALAXY denim series.

Trout Trad
Hidden pockets and details are camouflaged in new traditional ISSEY MIYAKE suits, in charcoal and navy. Steeley gray suits with chalky white pinstripes that seem to disappear for a fleeting moment.

Trout Tricks
Jacket, pant and waistcoat series which is double woven and cut to reveal pockets; the hidden reverse weft reveals itself only when it is necessary, mimicking the characteristic behavior of a trout. A woven dot pattern is also inspired directly from a trout.

See more images here.

Photos Copyright Issey Miyake.

About Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake was born 1938 in Hiroshima, Japan, where he both witnessed and survived the nuclear bomb, which was dropped on August 6, 1945.

In 1964, Issey graduated from the Tama Art University in Tokyo with a degree in Graphic Design, going on to work in both Paris and New York for the next six years.

In 1970, Issey returned to Japan and founded Miyake Design Studio. In the 1990’s, he pioneered a new technique called garment pleating.

Issey’s concept of design is to create with one piece of cloth as he explores the relationship between the body and that piece of cloth.

Since 2007, Dai Fujiwara has been the Issey Miyake House Creative Director.

See more images here.

Photos Copyright Issey Miyake.

December 28, 2010

Let It Snow…. Or Not?!

Snow—it all looks alike, right? Well, not to everyone! Think of the words for snow in your native language.

In English alone, I have learned about a half-dozen ways to describe falling snow and over 20 terms to define snow lying on the ground.

Living just outside of New York City, I just experienced what would suffice as enough snow for a lifetime! As I am typing, there lie 76.2cm (30 inches) of snow outside my door!

To many couture designers, snow and all its characteristics serve as a powerful yet natural inspiration for their creations: the sparkle, the drifting, the crystals, the textures—and much, much more!

To me, another aspect of snow applies to the world fashion and design, and it is for this very purpose that I write: uniqueness!

As the axiom holds true that “no two snowflakes are alike,” there are even several categories into which snowflakes may fall.

Fashion, costume, dress, menswear, style—call it what you may—speak of our identity.

Have you ever noticed that most people seek to dress alike? The more different those certain individuals dress, the stranger they become?

This sort of reasoning stems from the fact that most individuals crave a sense of belonging to a given group and, in most societies, our outer appearance defines us.

That’s why snowflakes inspire me—they are a celebration of our unique identity!

If nature itself allows for no two snowflakes to be alike, why shouldn’t we allow others to express their uniqueness in their outer appearance?

So I leave you with a thought as we approach the end of another year. Are you a snowflake or a snowdrift?

Either way, you need to put something on! So, I invite you to another year of exciting menswear reading!

As for me, I’m going to let it snow! See a few more snow images here.

Photos Copyright Men’s Fashion by Francesco.

December 26, 2010

Diemme for Your Next Trek

Diemme has been producing footwear in Montebelluna, Italy, since the 1870’s.

Montebelluna is a small town in the Veneto region of approximately 30,000 inhabitants. Other footwear labels that produce in the town include Fila and Geox.

Since 1992, the company has been run by two brothers, Dennis and Maico, who produce 4 types of shoes: high mountain, trekking, hunting, and safety boots.

Have a look at the boots here.

Photos Copyright Calzaturificio Diemme, Courtesy Capsule.

FEIT—Custom Made for your Feet

FEIT was founded by Tull Price 2005 in Australia as a lean model of footwear producers that maintain a direct relationship with their customers, mostly online.

Tull searched the world for years looking for skilled craftsman who create the perfect custom shoe.

Recently FEIT produced the Kudu Stichdown, which comes in 4 colors but limited to 36 pairs.

Stitchdown is a hand-sewn process in which the top and bottom stitch are inter-stitched by stretching the upper over the last.

Kudu is the leather that is derived from the antelope that grazes in South Africa.

See more models here.

Photos Copyright FEIT Direct.

December 23, 2010

Happy Holidays

As we approach the end of another year, I would like to wish everyone everywhere a happy and healthy holiday season!

December 22, 2010

Clae: Footwear for the Cool

Clae’s collection of original silhouettes breathes new life into traditional footwear.

An ease of design lies at the heart of the brand, fusing the comfort of athletic footwear with the aesthetic of traditional dress-inspired styling.

By redefining the boundaries of casual footwear, Clae fills the void between sneakers and shoes.

Clae captures the lifestyle and momentum of the modern consumer, appealing to men of any generation.

See more styles here.

Photo & text Copyright Clae, Courtesy
BPMW.

December 21, 2010

Gloverall—Icons of British Excellence

Recognized worldwide as the foremost Original Duffle Coat, Gloverall has gained Iconic status as a design classic. Playing a part in fashion and culture through the last 60 years Gloverall draws on its Military and Industrial Heritage to be one of the most respected and loved British Brands.

A balance of tradition and modernity reflects through our coats with manufacturing in England and our newly introduced collection Made in London England.

In the 50's Gloverall created what is known as today’s Duffle Coat, with a check back double faced fabric, horn toggles and leather fastenings. Many companies try to emulate and copy but there is only one and that is the Original Gloverall Duffle Coat.

Duffles
The word Duffle originally referred to a Heavy Woollen Cloth closely woven for warmth and manufactured in the Belgian Town of Duffel. However over the years it has come to signify a hooded coat with distinctive toggle fastenings which was adopted by the British Navy and used by officers and men of the watch to protect against the biting Atlantic and North Sea winds. The toggles could be unfastened whilst wearing thick gloves and hoods were carefully designed to fit over peaked Naval caps.

Photographs of servicemen during the 1914-18 war show a duffle type coat. Between the end of World War I and the start of World War II the coat was modified into the traditional Naval Duffle.

Gloverall still maintains this Naval link through the Iconic ‘Monty’ and its application to the service highlighted by its namesake Field Viscount Montgomery and is worn by Jack Hawkins in the film ‘The Cruel Sea’. The design of the latter is a replica of the original retaining its characteristic rope and wood toggling, webbing stays and two piece hood.

In 1951 Harold & Freda Morris who specialized in selling cotton, leather, Gloves and Overalls were approached the by the Ministry of Defense to help dispose of their surplus supplies of World War II duffle coats. Mr Harold Morris then conceived the name Gloverall.

See a few more models here.

Photo & text Copyright Gloverall, Courtesy Capsule and on deck at Capsule.

Veja—Ecological Accessories

Veja has been working for 5 years in Brazil on an innovative and progressive project creating new agricultural channels and raising crafting standards, whilst respecting both the environment
and human rights.

Last winter, Veja debuted a collection of bags and accessories. The Veja bags and accessories are made with ecological materials.

The lining and canvas are made from organic cotton grown by a co-operative of producers in the Northeast of Brazil. The cotton is grown in the agro ecology method which bans the use of chemicals and pesticides. The leather is tanned with acacia extracts; a natural, non-polluting tannin.

Veja has created a global chain that emphasizes solidarity and the environment ranging from the small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores.

The bags are made of organic cotton, wild rubber from the Amazon and vegetable-tanned leather. The bags are assembled in an atelier that respects the workers’ rights.

Bags, accessories and trainers are transported by boat from Porto Alegre, Brazil, to Le Havre in France. Upon arrival in Le Havre, they travel in barges along canals to the Parisian suburbs.

Veja has created a partnership for the storage and the deliveries of the bags and trainers with a social association, Atelier Sans Frontieres. The association helps people reintegrate to society through work.

Veja buys organic cotton and wild rubber under fair trade principals, respecting all the partners involved.

In 2003, the two founders of Veja traveled around the world studying sustainable development projects (http://www.justeplanete.org/). In Chinese factories, South-African mines and the Amazon rainforest, they have looked for solutions to the problems of our times: massive deforestation, exhaustion of natural resources, labor exploitation… Veja is the logical result of this adventure.

See the accessories here.

Photos & text Copyright Veja.

December 20, 2010

Paul Smith Cosmic Rock—Down to the Feet!

Previously when I posted the spring/summer 2011 collection by Paul Smith, I did not include the footwear.

Well, now I would like to present Paul Smith “Cosmic Rock”—right down to the shoes!

The collection presents a wide range of textures and styles, something for everyone.

Of particular note, the boots appear in varying heights, from ankle-high to mid-calf.

Check out the cosmic collection here.

Photos Copyright Paul Smith.

Visual Poetry by Visual Poetry

Situated in Barcelona, Spain, Visual Poetry has been designing shirts, t-shirts, and sweatshirts since 2006.

The company was founded by young team of artists, ranging from music to graffiti.

The name of the label was derived from the poetic messages, which are applied to the garments as a means of meaningful expression instead of “nonsense.”

Visual Poetry maintains a high quality in the aesthetics of the garment, as well as in the ethics of its manufacturing, striving for organic processes.

See more tees here.

Photos Copyright Visual Poetry Barcelona.

December 19, 2010

The Light Side of Dark with Petar Petrov

For autumn/winter 2010, Petar Petrov may limit his collection to the colors of black and white but not to innovation.

The collection is based on lines, which the designer creates with zippers, textures, and straps.

Slim in silhouette, this collection contains hints of bondage, goth styles, and urban trends.

See the whole collection here.

Photos Copyright Petar Petrov, Courtesy système D.

Blue Skies in 2011 with Petar Petrov

After a mostly black and white autumn/winter collection this year, Petar Petrov adds a splash of blue sky to the spring/summer 2011 collection.

Additional earthy tones can be seen, as well as an innovative takeoff on the classic shirt, which he fashions into somewhat of a cutoff vest, and medical coats.

The collection is relaxed and carefree.

See more shots here.

Photos Copyright Petar Petrov, Courtesy système D.

Conquistador

Tassos Sofroniou is the designer behind Conquistador, which he defines by quoting Wikipedia as “conqueror,” “one who conquers,” or one who overcomes or surmounts.”

More than a mere menswear collection, Conquistador is an artistic statement, a description of maleness and masculinity, a definition of modern man.

Drawing from the adventurous spirit of medieval explorers and soldiers, Tassos has created a collection with references from “scuba diving uniforms,” 16th century armor, and the classic tuxedo!

The collection is designed to embrace the rebel within each man lots of 100% leather accessories, such as wallets, laptop cases, handbags, jewelry, and more.

Tassos was born in Germany but is based in Greece.

See the collection here.

Photos Copyright Conquistador, Courtesy système D.

December 18, 2010

Men’s Color Fall/Winter 2011-12 by Design Options

Color Trend Report Young Men's, Contemporary: Fall/ Winter 2011-12 young men's color trends are on display with themes ranging from:

City Slicker, audaciously urban; Midnight Cowboy, modish and modern buckaroo; American Attitude, a true patriot with stylish disposition; to Rock N' Soul which is mod to new wave retro at core.

Presented on WeConnectFashion [formerly Infomat], courtesy of Design Options, the color forecasting company who brings Southern California's unique aesthetic to the world.

American Attitude
American Attitude… A true patriot with stylish disposition. Deep mauve and plum shades of ultranationalist and factional call attention to bold edges while simultaneously accentuating fine style lines. Silver and grey tones of opinionated and affection add a touch of pretense on a canvas of ribbed knit.


City Slicker
City Slicker… Bright lights and city nights. Slate grey and olive shades of audaciously urban and metropolitan give full rein to timeless elements. Deep mustard and chocolate brown tones create a distinctively modern atmosphere while adding slick texture to satin finishes.


Midnight Cowboy
Slate blue and green-yellow shades of buckaroo and horseman display stoutness on tailored oxford and woven fabrications. Modesh and modern exhibitions of roping, riding and bull-dogging…Midnight Cowboy.


Rock n’ Soul
Rock N’ Soul… Influenced by a soul full of retro. Orange and yellow shades of new wave and mod culture reveal pure authenticity on a backdrop of brocade. Silver and cyan blue hues of rockin’ revival and harmonious resurgence combine brilliantly with unparalleled technique.


Design Options, has a golbal client base, filling the color needs of large retailers to small indie design firms.

Photos & text Copyright Design Options, Courtesy WeConnectFashion [formerly Infomat], Used with permission.

December 17, 2010

S.N.S. Herning—the Collection: TAG 1011

The collection of knits from S.N.S. Herning for the season AW10 is called TAG 1011.

The main idea for the collection is to explore a bit the practice surrounding the tagging of clothing—in our case: knits.

Normally, the nametag is sought for with some interest—since this is what tells you directly what “brand” made the garment.

We prefer to think about S.N.S. Herning as a trademark rather than a brand—and when we place a nametag in the neck of a knit, it is only there to tell you that the garment was knitted in Herning, Denmark.

(So you could say that tour real trademark is to strive to keep alive a locally based tradition for making knitwear.)

Our signed hangtags testify to the meeting of the artisan and machinery in the manufacturing of every knit.

No knit from us will ever be radically new, since we always limit ourselves to using the building blocks from within our own history. The genesis lies in the recombining of letter to new words.

Simple and understated functional aesthetic ensures the longevity of every garment. Like always, it is just more of the same: Trademark, artisan, genesis.

TAG1011: See the collection here.

S.N.S. Herning—Knitted in Denmark since 1931.

Photos & text Copyright S.N.S. Herning.

S.N.S. Herning—A History


The registered trademark S. N. S. HERNING was founded in 1931 by SØREN NIELSEN SKYT (1899– 1972) in Herning, Denmark.

As a young man, he made a living by selling knitted garments of his own making. In the late 1920’es, he learned about a technique of knitting with “bubble” patterns that increased the insulating abilities of garments.

Relying on these techniques, he began manufacturing the so-called FISHERMAN sweater, which was intended to protect its wearer from the rough weather at sea, and to be robust enough to withstand the wear and tear from the hard work.

All our FISHERMAN sweaters are still being knit-ted after the same recipe as that of Søren Nielsen Skyt—with strict rules for the layout of the bubble pattern, the cut, the measurements, and the finishing etc. Something about the design and feel of this garment makes us shy away from making even the slightest of changes to it.

Design is perhaps even a misleading word. The look of the sweater is quite directly derived from the function, and it is probably this simple and understated functional aesthetic that ensures the longevity
of the garment.

Eighty years have passed since the release of our first FISHERMAN sweater. Even if the production has had its highs and lows, we never stopped knitting it. And to this day, the FISHERMAN sweater remains at the core of our entire production of knit-wear.

More knits have naturally been added to our repertoire over time—but they all relate more or less directly to our original knit in terms of functionality, aesthetic, underlying technique, texturing, or simply that hard to describe feel.

All knits can be thought of as members of a family - sharing the same forefather.

Remaining true to a few simple principles of trying our best to make fine knitwear that will outlast the mores of fashion has been at the heart of our company for generations. Our trademark was first registered with the two fishermen in a dinghy in 1948—and even if we do not exclusively knit for fishermen, we kept the old beautiful logo as our trademark to always remember our origins.

Keeping alive a locally based tradition for making knitwear, though, is our real TRADEMARK.

Artisan
ALL knitting at the S. N. S. HERNING mill is done with aged machinery from the German producer of knitting machinery, STOLL. Even if the actual knitting is a purely mechanical process, nothing would be achieved without adding the knowledge of the artisan operating the machine. To celebrate this fact, all knits leaving the S. N. S. HERNING mill bear the handwritten signature of the artisan who knitted the item.

Rather than making anonymous mass-produced products, we like that you can actually trace the origin of individual items back to the man in charge of the machine knitting it. The signed tags testify to the

meeting of man and machinery in the making of every single knit.

This idea of tracing origins was also the reason why Søren Nielsen Skyt initially decided to use his own initials and the city where the production was done as part of the registered trademark for his knits.

In his early days, this idea was very common: make your product stand out by identifying the name of the producer, and the city where it was made. Named people and cities would over time grow a reputation for making specific and unique products—like Herning did for producing knitwear.

Since then, the overall tendency—put quite simply—has been that of standardization. Production changed its character from being locally based—to being performed at large-scale sites, in effect eradicating all traces of where the products were actually made and by whom.

A very basic idea of artisans being proud of their crafts and leaving their individual marks on unique products—seems to have been almost lost in this transition.

No two knits leaving the S. N. S. HERNING mill will be completely identical. Yet, we do not consider this to be a flaw with our knits, quite on the contrary. Like the knitter leaves his signature on every garment, so will the old machinery—in the sense that small imperfections in the fabrics are due to in-built limitations with the old machinery. To work with the limitations of the tools you are handed down—that is perhaps the characteristic of a true ARTISAN.

Genesis
GENERATIONS of knitters have been working at the S. N. S. HERNING mill over the last nearly
80 years. All of them have contributed towards generating the shared knowledge where all our knits stem from.

Every season, the main part of the collection of knits from S. N. S. HERNING is either complete remakes of old styles or styles that are based on knitting patterns and swatches picked up from the archives at our mill.

No knit will ever be radically new since we always limit ourselves to the path already laid out by our own history.

Evolving from this basis to make “new” knits means: to recombine the letters of a fixed alphabet into new words. To some, these words shall be meaningful, to others nonsensical, or just playful babbling. But all words will be in our own local language, and they shall all sound familiar—like the similarities within members of a family.

So, to prepare a new collection of knits is to us at S. N. S. HERNING like trying to protect a local dialect from extinction. Not that our dialect is particularly beautiful, poetic, or functional. Not at all, but preserving it just contributes towards diversity.

In fact, the collection of knits for A/W 10 is called T A G 10 11 as a hint to the reason why we tag and sign our knits, namely to show that they have a specific, local origin.

Summing all this up: We believe that you can in fact move forwards, by looking backwards. And you have to move forwards. That is why our trademark is artisan GENESIS.
See more images here.

Photo & text Copyright S.N.S Herning.

Happy Holidays with aussieBum

Yesterday, aussieBum put some well needed Aussie warmth and sunshine in the coldest winter London has experienced in 30 years.

Last Thursday afternoon, seven hot aussieBum models warmed up the men's underwear department of London fashion temple Selfridges on Oxford street as they walked around the department store's aisles in nothing more than their underwear!

aussieBum's latest underwear range MyDAY, featuring 7 eye-catching waistband colours (one for each day of the week) came to life as the models took on parading in front of thousands of amazed Christmas shoppers.

Get warmed up with more photos here.
Photos & text Copyright aussieBum.

December 16, 2010

Shellac—for Real Men

In biology shellac is a resin that is secreted by female lac insects, which are found in the forests of India and Thailand.

In music, Shellac is a minimalist rock trio from North America.

In fashion, Shellac is a Japanese menswear label, which is designed by Hideshi Maruya.

Unknown to most, shellac is a slang term, which means ‘to strike, batter, or defeat’. Shellac applies this term to its image as the fundamental desire to destroy just another commonsense and unveil the elegance the lies behind that boldness.

The brand is directed at “the man who has the ability to value his own sense and never lose his power, defiance, and ambition, which keep flowing out of his inner self.”

Check out the look book here.

Photos Copyright Shellac.

Meltin’Pot Denim Details

Meltin’Pot’s spring/summer 2011 denim collection, which is already both varied and condensed, is energized with certain original “aspects,” the result follows an in-depth and fruitful research into new fits, fabrics, washes, and treatments, which remain the core strength of the brand.

The new summer collection features a wide range of washed tones and colors. Thanks to the inclusion of different types of cottons, ranging from historical bull and gabardine to a new paper poplin and canvas.

Aspects of authentic vintage and used blue canvas remain, and the primary focus is on the worn effect with shades of blue and white “bleached” in addition to new techniques for implementing broken denim. The timeless “ripped” jean is not only broken and patched, but also utilizes a new technique to achieve this “rip & repair” effect, made up of various sizes of patches to repair the rips—a process not dissimilar to—a bike tire repair!

Another new aspect is “fading (a “direct” pigment dye is applied, which gives a colored marble effect on the surface) of the jeans: these innovative procedures to bleach the denim are all carried out by hand and are mandatory for each piece.

The leading innovation of the new Meltin’Pot s/s 2011 collection is, however, the “New Old Vintage Color,” a treatment developed for the premium capsule collection Mp001. Completely handcrafted and obtained by means of ecological products, giving a vintage aspect to the item, but without intervening with use of aggressive chemical treatments that very often wear down the natural cottons’ fibers.

This operation draws on the ancient techniques of craft-made dyes that used rigorously handmade “immersion” techniques in specific tanks of natural dyes, and without the need to heat.

The color combinations can be numerous and are acquired by using ancient dyeing technique, which is a simple “immersion and oxidation” process, which is totally manual just like the home hand rinse! The overall effect is dynamic owing to the “inconsistency” of the color penetration: color “reserves” give an effect of light/dark as if the garment had been treated with Stone Wash commonly used in industrial processes and particularly in the use of Natural Indigo Blue.

Another inevitable addition to the new denim collection are tweaks to existing fits and an introduction to some new ones for both men and women featuring regular, modern work and jockey fits for him, and a new boys cut, straight fit.

View the collection here.

Photo & text Copyright Meltin’Pot.

December 15, 2010

STONE ISLAND’s association with the POLAR BAR

The new outdoor bar at the Bayerischer Hof hotel in Munich

Munich, December 2010—As a partner of the hotel Bayerischer Hof, the most prestigious hotel in Bavaria, Stone Island is playing an important role in the project POLAR BAR—the newly inaugurated temporary outdoor bar located on the hotel terrace on Promenadeplatz.

The project is by Horst Wittmann and Konstantin Landuris, the young, emerging German designers and owners of the studio Hansundfranz, who designed the “POLAR BAR” as a polar station, with a nomadic and very flexible character.

Guests get the impression that polar scientists stopped for a little while in the eternal winter to have a party on the ice.

The bar elements are reminiscent of expedition containers and are equally handy: they serve both as the bar counter itself and as storage space.

The metal surface with its honeycomb pattern has an industrial look and was originally used in the automotive and aeronautic industry.

Stone Island’s contribution to the project is based on the use of some of its most innovative materials: the ICE JACKET FABRIC, the heat sensitive fabric that changes color according to changes in temperature and REFLECTIVE FABRIC, which is highly reflective owing to its coating of glass micro spheres.

These fabrics have been used for the fleece-lined blankets offering protection from the cold and the covers of some of the furnishings.

“The POLAR BAR project appealed to me straight away. I found many aspects in common with theStone Island philosophy.

The history and prestige of the Bayerischer Hof Hotel has been combined with a propensity towards modern design exploration in the project by Konstantin Landuris and Horst Wittmann.

I am sure that it will be an interesting initiative and hope it will be the beginning of a long association.”

Carlo Rivetti, President of Stone Island

“As a luxury operator, the hotel Bayerischer Hof sets standards for the well being of its guests and at the same time, feels the need to offer them new experiences.”Innegrit Volkhardt, owner of the Bayerischer Hof hotel. The POLAR BAR will be straightforward, authentic and always driven by innovative ideas. That was our aim with this project: An aim that reflects the philosophy of STONE ISLAND.”

Horst Wittmann, Designer

View the photos here

Photo Copyright Stone Island.

December 14, 2010

Uomo Moda Winter 2010/11—It’s Out!

The most recent edition of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only menswear magazine in Egypt for which I write, is out!

This winter edition focuses on formal style trends and how to look your sharpest in a suit! I hope you enjoy the reading.

Check out the entire magazine here, or go directly the the articles of your choice by clicking below:


What’s Hot, What’s Not & How to Own It for Yourself
Whatever Suits You: Jackets 101
Panting over Pants & Below
Getting to the Bottom of Things—Shoes
Layer upon Layer
Invest in a Vest…or a Sweater
Bows & Ties
Scarf It Up
The Outer Shell
Hats Off to You…
Coordinating Colors

Bone Wear’s Tight Fit Briefs

Bone Wear’s Tight Fit Briefs with cool mesh inserts are now listed on our website.

Available in black or white with four vibrant summer colors: blue, red, orange, and yellow.

See the different models here.

Photo & text Copyright Bone Wear.

December 13, 2010

The Journey into Stone Island Begins

Carlo Rivetti opens the doors of the headquarters of his Sportswear Company in Ravarino, where his brand Stone Island was born and continues to bear life.

A first general recognition where Carlo Rivetti reveals the philosophy of a company that has always been founded on research and experimentation.

Where that, which is revealed is the passion and the deep knowhow of what turns ideas and visions into garments and collections that are always innovative and in the vanguard.

What follows is a serialized story, where an indiscreet camera records, without any secret, the testimonies of the people involved and all the places where the product is created.

Carlo Rivetti's Tour from Stone Island on Vimeo.

Photo & text Copyright Stone Island.

oki-ni Presents Spring/Summer 2011

oki-ni is proud to present a selection of key products from our forthcoming spring/summer 2011 collections.

Current favourites Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Jil Sander sit alongside new oki-ni brands including Band Of Outsiders, Thom Browne, Comme des Garcons SHIRT, N. Hoolywood, Norse Projects, TS(S), Christopher Kane amongst others.

New additions to the site for spring/summer 11 are listed below:





Text & video Copyright oki-ni.

December 12, 2010

Menswear for Charity by John Allan’s

John Allan's, Chicago’s premier men’s grooming club, and Back on My Feet Chicago, a charity dedicated to aiding the homeless, are teaming up to help those in need.

Back on My Feet is a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting the self-sufficiency of homeless populations through a running program in order to build confidence, strength, and self-esteem.

The organization works to rebuild and revive individuals so they can find a road of happiness, hope, and opportunity that includes a stable job and place to live.

Through six- and nine-month programs in which members must continue a 90% attendance rate for morning runs three times a week, they are provided connections to job training, employment, and housing opportunities.

Now through the Christmas holiday, John Allan's will host a Back on My Feet drop box where members can donate gently used professional men's attire to benefit the organization's participants.

Customers who donate clothing or make a $20 contribution to Back on My Feet will receive a special $38 offer for John Allan’s “Signature Full Service” which includes; a scalp massaging shampoo, conditioning treatment, hot towel, hair cut, manicure, and shoe shine.

Photos Copyright John Allan’s & Back on My Feet Chicago, text Courtesy XA, the Experiential Agency.

Accessorie with D&Y

This 2011 spring/summer season, D&Y has all of the appropriate accessories to rid that messy bed head problem or accessorize the perfect outfit.

D&Y beanies and fedoras are perfect to recreate the next hottest trend or hanging out at the beach.

Available in a variety of styles at affordable prices, prepare your spring closet with the right accessories today.

You have seen D&Y accessories on your favorite Celebrities and Television shows such as Kellen Lutz, E! Daily 10, plus more.

Check out the hats here.

About D&Y
David & Young started out in 1977 as a supplier to Greenwich Village, Soho and downtown Manhattan neighborhood retailers with one philosophy: to make the most fun, fashion forward and high quality hats, scarves, sunglasses and accessories for people to enjoy.

Photos & text Copyright D&Y, Courtesy P3R Publicity.

55DSL x Manhattan Portage…

…Limited Edition Messenger Bag, Customized by Andrea Rosso.

Live at least 55 seconds per day!

“Yesterday I rescued a cat from a burning building, scored the winning goal, wrote the great American novel and met the girl of my dreams. It was just another day for me. How about you? Slick Italian style with cool New Yorker edge: I’m not just another black bag”.

55DSL and Manhattan Portage have collaborated to create a special limited edition bag called the EUROPA 55; a combination of 55DSL’s creativity with the iconic red label from New York City. The originality of 55DSL and technical expertise of legendary manufacturer Manhattan Portage makes this urban messenger bag the ultimate collector’s item.

“I am so thrilled about this collaboration” says Andrea Rosso, creative director of 55DSL. “For years it has been my wish to collaborate with Manhattan Portage. Everyone at 55DSL has heard about it — just look up at their logo and you’ll notice the skylines of New York City on it. There is a little bit of a New Yorker in every one of us!”

The special collaborative bag will bear the 55DSL black label and the MP brand’s signature red label. It will come with several customized parts such as a vintage black metal buckle which prevents the heavy duty shoulder strap from moving while riding a bike or on the go. The inside red lining makes it easy to spot what you’re looking for and all the extra zippers and compartments will keep your daily essentials organized. Also the cool graphic print applied on the outside body and the front vinyl flap turns this bag into a trendy hybrid version.

Su Hwei Lin, president of Manhattan Portage, is equally enthusiastic: “We enjoyed working with Andrea Rosso on this project! He has been very involved and supportive during the design stage. This collaboration is a good opportunity for Manhattan Portage to work with a dynamic Italian brand that encourages creativity and supports self expression amongst its consumers and partners alike”.

A limited number of 1,000 bags will be released worldwide and will be available at 55DSL and Manhattan Portage stores and select retailers starting in November. And to top it all off, a secret surprise gift inside the bag has been provided by 55DSL for all of those who get this bag by the end of December.

See the bag here.

About 55DSL
55DSL was born in 1994 as spin off of the Diesel group. Driven by the action sports arena, it has evolved to become a lifestyle brand influenced by graphic design, urban culture and music. 55DSL is a young and dynamic company distributed worldwide with a strong presence in Japan, Italy, UK and US.

About Manhattan Portage
Born in 1983, Manhattan Portage spent its early days designing bags to meet the practical needs of New Yorkers. Inspiration came from the streets, and what was originally designed for bike messengers and the DJ music scene has now become mainstream as multi-purpose urban gear.

Since that time, our messenger bags and DJ bags have become timeless classics and our collection has grown to serve all walks and runs of urban life. By staying true to its urban roots and through constant dedication to quality and craftsmanship, the little red label from NYC is now seen all over the world, with a simple philosophy in mind: to design “A Bag for Everyone”.

Photos & text Copyright 55DSL & Manhattan Portage.

Season’s Greetings from Hypothesis

What better way to ring in the holiday season and promote messages of “peace on earth” than with Hypothesis Inc., Theory of Self Co. ®

A creative graphic design and illustration company designed to promote messages of peace, unity and diversity through original and custom designed tees, Hyp-Inc. offers consumers a unique blend of women’s and men’s t-shirts and hoodies. Hyp-Inc tees are sure to be a must have stocking stuffer this holiday season.

With joyful peace sign designs and the option to “go green” with a globally conscious organic tee, Hyp-Inc. is the way to go when spreading holiday cheer. For that one of a kind gift…custom tees are the way to go. Personalized gifts that come from the heart tend to be the most recognized and admired.

Luckily, Hyp-Inc. makes personalization quick and easy. Hyp-Inc. sits down with its clients and has a one-on-one discussion of the consumer’s vision and from there they are able to artfully align the graphic to coincide with a personalized message for the consumer. The result: A custom made tee artfully and ethically crafted in 100% sweatshop-free print shops.

This holiday season Hyp-Inc. invites you to partake in the merrymaking with the Great Holiday Tee Party. One or more random tees a day will be ONLY $13. No grinches here! Just like your own holiday party, you and all your friends and family are invited to the festivities and encouraged to treat yourselves and others to a celebration of tees and the season. Unlike your typical holiday party…this tee party never really ends.

See the tees here.

About Hyp-Inc.
Eugene Serebrennikov is designer and owner of Hyp-Inc. (aka Hypothesis Inc.) Theory of Self Co. Hypothesis Inc., Theory of Self Co. ®, is a creative design studio and clothing company specializing in graphic design and illustration.

Photos & text Copyright Hyp-Inc.

Bangladesh & the Price of Fashion

This weekend in the Bangladesh port city of Chittagong, three garment workers were killed and dozens were injured in violent protests for higher minimum wages.

In July of this year, the garment workers were promised higher wages by November 1. When the implementation of the new minimum was delayed, the protests ignited.

Garment workers in Bangladesh are the least paid in the world, according to Vienna’s International Trade Union Confederation.

Throughout the country, more than 4,000 factories manufacture garments for well-known brands, exporting largely to the United States and Europe

Garment exports in Bangladesh account for 80% of the nation’s exports and the majority of workers are women.

In Chittagong, there are about 70 foreign companies that employ approximately 150,000 workers.

Clearly, most of us have no sphere of influence in these internal affairs; but the companies from which we purchase our clothing can have a direct impact.

The question that may touch us is this: Are willing to sacrifice our fast fashion and pay a higher price for the rights of others who produce for us?

Photo by Balaram Mahalder Village life of Bangladesh, Copyright GNU Free Documentation License at Wikimedia Commons.

December 10, 2010

LACOSTE Legend–Tim Hamilton

An inspirational new footwear design project, LACOSTE Legends brings together 12 legendary collaborators from the worlds of music, media, design and retail, to create an exclusive collection comprising 12 shoes.

Sharing the Lacoste values of tenacity, authenticity, modernity and effortless style, together the 12 contributors are the LACOSTE Legends.

Each of the 12 designers was invited to create a unique interpretation of a LACOSTE footwear style, and pay homage to the spirit of René Lacoste and the iconic L.12.12 Polo.

Fusing the collection together, each shoe has a tongue crafted from petit piqué cotton, incorporating a woven LACOSTE-branded tab finished with a mother-of-pearl button, referencing the intricate detailing found on the L.12.12 Polo.

The 12 designs reflect the broadly diverse personalities and creative talents of each of the contributors, and confirm their legendary status as the foremost trend-setters and opinion-leaders from across the globe.

American designer Tim Hamilton has redesigned the classic 1963 René Lacoste style. His influences for this design come from high-ankle military boots, and reflect elements from Tim’s Redux line whose vision is to marry function with form.

The proportions of a military boot are maintained by extending the panelling of the existing René Lacoste style in an upward direction, multiplying the eyelets and keeping the piping details from the original style. The resulting design is a ground-breaking evolution for the classic René Lacoste 1963.

In keeping with his Redux collection, which in 2010 incorporated tar-dipped boots, Hamilton chooses to use a garment-dyed canvas that gives the shoes unique feel. Round laces complete what is a simple yet functional take on a time-honoured LACOSTE classic shoe.

See more images here and watch the video.



Legends
The story of Legends begins with René Lacoste. Reigning tennis champion of the 1920s known as ‘The Crocodile’ for his on-court tenacity, René was a true legend of his time.

Famed for his sportsmanship, his spiritedness, elegance and enduring sense of style, René went on to found the eponymous LACOSTE brand that over 75 years later still bears the much-beloved crocodile emblem.

As a prolific inventor off the tennis court, René created the ubiquitous L12.12 Polo Shirt, utilising state-of-the-art technology to craft it from breathable cotton known as petit piqué. To this day the Polo Shirt remains an icon of the brand, synonymous with quality and style.

Inspired by the legacy of René and the LACOSTE tradition of innovation, the story lives on through the Legends footwear concept that unites 12 contemporary Legends to pay homage to the great man and the iconic L12.12 Polo.

The 12 LACOSTE Legends are:

Jazzie B
Sebastien Tellier
Stones Throw
ato
Christophe Lemaire
Tim Hamilton
Sneaker Freaker
i-D
Shoes Master
Bodega
D-Mop
colette

Photos & text Copyright Lacoste, Courtesy Surgery PR.

Bodega x Lacoste Legends

An inspirational new footwear design project, LACOSTE Legends brings together 12 legendary collaborators from the worlds of music, media, design and retail, to create an exclusive collection comprising 12 shoes.

Sharing the Lacoste values of tenacity, authenticity, modernity and effortless style, together the 12 contributors are the LACOSTE Legends.

For Legends, cult sneaker store Bodega have fashioned a masterful version of LACOSTE’s Broadwick—a court-inspired tennis cup shoe, and one of our most coveted styles.

On the uppers, the Bodega design features a sophisticated woolen pin stripe in deep navy.
Contrasting this rich tone, the tan leather trims around the heel tab, collar and lining give an overall feeling of refined styling and clean-cut elegance.

Bodega’s signature is embroidered on the heel.

Founder of cult Boston sneaker store Bodega, Jay Gordon, talks about his design for Lacoste Legends collaboration project and his love of the brand.




Photo & text Copyright Lacoste, Couresty Surgery PR.

Saint Augustine Academy e-store

Sydney-based label Saint Augustine Academy, have launched their long-awaited online store.

The 7-year-old label wanted to implement a platform where their dedicated and devoted customer base could purchase their entire collection in a simple and easy transaction.

The online store was developed in conjunction with Adam Muniz and Ivan Prasad, Directors of Australian high-end online menswear retailer, For-Tomorrow.

Muniz and Prasad developed their own unique technology when creating For-Tomorrow; the system has been re-engineered closely in conjunction with Saint Augustine Academy and offers a specifically customised, up to the minute and detailed experience.

It’s not just Australian fans of Saint Augustine Academy that can reap the benefits—there is also a separate site dedicated to the Northern Hemisphere, with a different selection of product, and shipping available to the USA, Europe and Japan.

The label is excited to be able to service customers in Europe who, as of yet, have not had the outlet to purchase the collections. Citing that their service is responsive 24 hours a day 7 days a week, and an offering of purchases in various currencies, will also benefit customers outside of Australia.

Muniz says “I look forward to working with the Saint Augustine Academy team on the label’s first online store. After stocking the label on For-Tomorrow for the past 2 years, I know first-hand the far-reaching appeal the brand has, both locally and worldwide. Also, this intrinsic knowledge plays a big role in accurately portraying the garments online.

These new shopping sites will give the brand’s fast-growing female customer base a chance to purchase their designs as well, which we look forward to developing in the coming seasons”

This new online venture is another big step forward for Saint Augustine Academy; the label continues to enjoy success with their stand-alone Surry Hills boutique, and have recently confirmed a number of new international stockists via their New York-based sales agency Parlor Showroom.

See the collection here.

Photos & text Copyright Saint Augustine Academy.

The “Artisan Tailor 2.0”from Italy, Sewing Your 100% Made-in-Italy Tie

The Italian service concept My Personal Dresser, the first Italian “web 2.0 artisan tailor,” proposes online the manufacturing and customisation of ties made in Italy, also abroad.

My Personal Dresser is an innovative online service concept based in Italy and dealing with clothing for men and women: items are manufactured and customised according to a special approach taking care, not only of aesthetic aspects but also of real life needs.

Thanks to its main features—i.e. quality, comfort and time saving—My Personal Dresser uses the Internet as a channel to facilitate the combination of the frantic dynamism of modern society and luxury handmade clothing made in Italy.

As a service to one’s own personal style, the “customised” service of My Personal Dresser skilfully joins ad hoc handmade clothing needs with the equally important need for rapidity and comfort expressed by today’s lifestyle.

Fabrics, cuts, details, finishes, customisation, and a whole tailor’s workshop are transferred on demand to a PC, directly at the user’s address. Communication technology provides the opportunity, not only in Italy but also throughout Europe, to manufacture customised ties of The Heritage line by My Personal Dresser.

Fully handmade with saddle stitching, visible buttonhole, silk twill lining, dry feel wool + viscous acetate, each tie is a “unique” item.

My Personal Dresser. has a wide selection of top quality yarns, including the excellence of products made in Italy (silk, cashmere, wool). This hand-made product requires three-four weeks for production and delivery.

See a few more shots here.

Photos & text Copyright My Personal Dresser, Courtersy Claudio Leoni.

December 8, 2010

Get Wrapped Up This Christmas in Royal Hem

Reasons to get wrapped up this Christmas in the Fall Winter 2010/11 Royal Hem range:

Royal Hem’s expertise: 55 Luxurious and sharp, contemporary Italian styled Jackets matching waistcoats and 10 overcoats complimented by soft cashmere knits, and slim line pants.

Royal Hem: Plays with colours, experimenting with washes, dyeing and plating of the fabrics, which gives some of them a “Vintage” look together with a subtle choice of colours, with an infinite number of shades ranging between the extremes of pure white and deepest blacks and amongst the vast palette of fall greys.

Royal Hem is: The ultimate in dapper, refined style using contrasting looks between dark and light with lighter chalk striped waistcoats being worn underneath darker contrasting overcoats.

Meticulous attention to detail with inserts in washed leather, silk linings and horn buttons polished and coated by hand.

Royal Hem is: Slim-fitting short jackets with narrow shoulders together with Shirt-style and knitted jackets adapted perfectly to the human body and its movements. Double-breasted styles feature heavily in suits and coats in the most luxurious fabrics and trousers with slightly low waist and pences.

Royal Hem is: the Must Have Choice for: Steppin out with my baby, winter walks in the park, Christmas party, pay raise in front of the boss, get dressed up in style on Christmas morning, what can I buy him, January chic.

Have a luxuriously stylish Yule with Royal Hem. Check out the wrappings here.

Photos & text Copyright Royal Hem.

Lu Flux: Over the Hills and Far Away

Lu Flux launches spring/summer 2011 at London Fashion Week.

In her second season at London Fashion week Lu Flux, who specialises in creating unique ethical clothing, presents her new Spring Summer 2011 collection.

The collection is inspired by the landscape paintings of Gustav Klimt and features blues, yellows and greens, which emulate the colours of an English garden in Spring.

Hoards of ribbon and personalised toile de Jouy feature alongside Lu Flux’s signature sculptural patchworks composed from salvaged, sustainable and organic fabrics.

Complex techniques adorn simple shapes to create wearable clothing with an effortless elegance.

Materials from the past are treasured, absorbed and adapted to create playful one off pieces.

Each element of the patchwork is placed exactly within a garment’s composition to create visually exciting and practical pieces.

With abundant textures and patterns, Lu Flux’s garments greet onlookers with a sense of creativity and pleasure. Humour is combined with beauty to conjure whimsical warmth that fills the wearer with a wonderful silliness.

Paying meticulous attention to the methods and materials that create each garment Lu Flux strives to demonstrate the possibility of creating ethical clothing without compromising beauty.
Have a look here at the collection.

Photos & text Copyright Lu Flux.

A New Era with Lab Gallerie

LAB for Cause—See the Light Aids charity tee is a project very dear to the heart designer Chris Cheng.

For autumn/winter 2010, Chris has enlisted a New Era of sporting stars to lend their face and bodies in support for LAB’s “See the light Charity tee project.

With 30% of proceeds from the sales of “See the Light” tee to benefit the Aids Trust of Australia & ACON. (Online sales of See the Light tee—50% contribution.)

See the collection here.

Photos Copyright Lab Gallerie.

December 7, 2010

Surrealism, Dalí & Ivan Arreola

Ivan Arreola is a Architect and Fashion designer from Tijuana Baja California, Mexico, one of the fastest growing cities in the country and the world's most-visited border city.

From his youth, Ivan has had a fascination for arts and painting, such as Salvador Dalí—one of his biggest inspirations.

For his new collection, spring/summer 2011, Ivan mixes the versatility and softness of Dalí's surrealist work with the orthogonality and precision of architecture, creating an eccentric yet wearable collection.

See the collection here.

Photos & text Copyright Ivan Arreola.
Photography: Mario Aragón
Hair & Makeup: Dana dorel
Model: Riki Betancourt for Gala Models
Photos Copyright Mario Aragón.